Andre mid-crux on the Milk Bone.
Andre mid-crux on the Milk Bone.

My good friend and resident DC hardman Andre (a.k.a. “Princess) flew in for the week last Thursday. After hearing me rave about the paradise city that is Golden and the overflowing plethora of rock we’ve got out here he decided to finally come see for himself. One can only subsist on the pink and blue routes of Earthtreks Climbing Center for so long.

Not a moment was wasted – we drove straight from the airport to Boulder Canyon to get that boy on some granite! Unfortunately, the weather had other plans, so we bailed a few miles south to Eldorado Canyon for a late evening romp up the ever-classic Yellow Spur (5.10 4-6 pitches).

The next day I continued the Front Range tour with a visit to Milk Bone, a super rad 5.13a sport route Chris Weidner and Matt Samet put up in the Flatirons overlooking Boulder. Cass, Les, and I had put in a burn each a week prior, and it was so good we left our draws hanging on the route. Milk Bone starts with a few steep moves, then pulls out onto a big tufa feature which you desperately slap and crimp your way up for four bolts, a poor rest leads to another hard sectio pulling a lip, after which 5.11 climbing gets you to the anchors. Andre took a hangdog burn to suss out the moves, and then nearly sent his second go, falling on the last hard mantle move at the lip! A short rest (another poor attemtp by me) and he was back at it, sadly to the same fate. So close.

A little food in town, and with hours of daylight left Andre was itching to plug some gear, so I threw him on the super classic Country Club Crack in Boulder Canyon. Nearly to the top, he pitched out of the crack and took a solid thrity foot winger. Rad.

Saturday was Clear Creek Golf, an event so momentous it will recieve its own post.

Sunday we hiked to the Diamond, Monday we climbed it, and Tuesday we chilled and came down; which will also recieve its own post.

Today (Wednesday) Andre onsighted Cosmosis (5.9+++) in Boulder Canyon, and sent Arms Bazaar (5.12a R) – both trad routes – on his first go for what I’m calling a “flashsight.” I gave him some minimal gear beta, the rest was all him.

And like that, as soon as it had begun it was over and I left him at the curb of the airport terminal.

Conclusions: Andre is one strong mofo, and I need some serious rest days.